Thursday, January 27, 2011

Day # 60 whatever -- Bangkok

If I were to be struck blind for my sins, I would live in Bangkok.  It could happen and I might.  Sins there are, whether or not they warrant blindness.

A blind man would still have the amazing input of Bangkok's olfactory overload.  Garbage and Incense at the same time, dog shit and the most sublime food smells I have ever been lucky enough to inhale.  River smells and canal smells and two-stroke smoke from the Tuk-tuks and moto taxis.  It is an experience to close your eyes and try to sort through all of the wonders that the air is wafting ones way.

And hell hath no fury like a Bangkok traffic jam, which can happen for any reason or none at any time.  Traffic simply stops.  On the way to my bicycle tour location, the event of the day, I had to abandon my tuk-tuk driver when the entire road just stopped.  And stayed stopped.  I out walked the morass and caught a metered taxi to the other side of Bangkok, the high-rent super chic shopping district.

On a back street was the bicycle tour.  I thought the moto taxi was insane.  Riding a bicycle in Bangkok is like a slow motion ballet with a fast motion salsa all going on at once.  It should be a complete disaster but somehow most everyone lives.

                                                            Joy tells us "Try not to die"

Big wide roads

                                                       Canals are all over, know as Klangs

Five hours on a bicycle in intense urban traffic, tiny lanes, through markets, across the river on a dragon-tail boat and then into the rural oasis just across the river.


                                      Shopping Thai Style.  The guys in blue vest will tote your stuff

                                                      Thai people love to get their picture taken
                                                       Dragon Tail boat across the river

We road throught the flood plains on elevated concrete walkways three feet wide with a three or four foot drop on both sides into the swamps and palms.  No railings and sharp turns.  Kilometers of paths.  The idea of liability alone would make this an impossibility in the USA but here it is simply done.  Try not to fall, OK.

                                                           Look Ma, no rails.  Don't fall!

The tour ended, I set out to cross Bangkok again, this time by foot, by sky train and then canal boat.  The commuter boats sweep up to the dock, motor blaring.  You
leap onto the boat with the Thais and if you dally, you are unceremoniously left behind.  Controlled chaos like all means of transportation here.

                                    A Klang Boat.  The visqueen is to keep the water off of you.  Icky!!

The day ended with a foot massage, a good cigar and possibly the finest meal I have ever had in a tiny hole in the wall.  My new favorite food are Roti, savory pancakes filled
with meats or fish curries or sweet things like pumpkin or bannanas for dessert.

                                                                      Roti!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just the second day and the reality of Bangkok is kicking my expectations to the curb.
It is also maddening.  I have an inate sense of direction that the streets of Bangkok laugh at.  I have been lost twice and turned around numerous times.  Since I have walked the labyrinth of Lisbon without a hitch, I pride myself on knowing where I am.  Bangkok has made a mincemeat of that and I keep heading out for more.  Tomorrow its up early for the river express boat to China Town and a walking and eating tour, guided by me.  From what I have heard about China Town, I may never return.

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