Saturday, February 5, 2011

Chiang Rai

This morning introduced me to my first Thai "breakfast included" city hotel. Lukewarm instant coffee and toast. OK toast and marmalade is a novelty, the coffee went untouched but the perfect bananas made it fine.
I am glad I bailed off the bus here. I had planned on going straight on to Chiang Kong but a few little words about CR kept getting to me ears.

I had an easy bus ride of less than four hours, air-con first class. For the very few baht in price the first class buses are the only way to go. I found the hotel within blocks and got checked in. Even cheaper here. The usual shower and back out in the streets.  Chiang Rai reminds me of a little tiny Bangkok mixed with a dose of Chiang Mai's hipness minus 90% of the falang.

                                                                      The Local Wat

Real shops selling hardware and clothes mixed with Wats and a few good bars and eating houses. I made merit at the first Wat near my hotel, walked the streets to the amazing main street with its
Golden clock tower which is like a stupa and then to the main Wat.


The story is that centuries ago lightning struck the original stupa which burst apart to reveal the jade Buddha hidden within. After the usual storied trek including a stint in Laos, the jade Buddha ended in Bangkok where it is ensconced at the royal Wat.

                                                         The "New" Emerald Buddha

In the 1990's another jade Buddha was commissioned, carved from Canadian jade and eventually housed in a wonderful new cheda on the grounds of the Forest Wat here in CR. And it is pretty spectacular.
I walked the museum as well at the urging of an elder monk. Buddhas, Buddhas and more Buddhas. We aren't in Kansas anymore my little fundamentalist Toto.

I saw that the Saturday market was setting up so back to the hotel for a quick rinse and grabbed a cigar. Out the door and not 50 meters I passes a tattoo shop that was all funkadelic. The Thai owner says "you need a seat" and motioned to the log section stools. I held up my cigar and he smiles and offered me a Chang.
We talked some and smoked and watched his dog and the people walking by. So very cool.

 I finished my cigar, thanked him and headed fir the market and "walking dinner". Tonight the menu included the best papaya I have ever had followed by corn on the cob. Third course was a banana fritter and then a small fish bun treat. Between courses I had roast cricket, as in just one, and then a red bean humbow. Whew!

                                             The Saturday Night Market, Chiang Rai, Thailand

                                    Your guess is as good as mine.  The food is supposed to be good.

The rest of the evening was spent drinking nam-soda at a very fun reggae bar that was a food mix of falang and locals.

Chiang Rai is my favorite "bigger" Thai city so far. I will be coming back.
Today is the rattletrap bus northeast

To Chiang Khong and then into Laos tomorrow.

Sent from my iPod

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