Chaos-Lao

There is Beer-Lao, cheap and easy. There is coffee-Lao, black, thick and wonderful. And when the government or any schedule are involved there is Chaos-Lao. Remember, it will all work out. Find a shady bit, whatever it is will be taking awhile.

                                          Thai Customs Outbound, from the Bug Ferry

I left Chiang Khong, Thailand after getting my exit stamp. Very important. The little "bug ferry" took me across the Mekong to Laos. The visa process was insane and became more so as boatloads, literally, of people showed up. Being one of the first I got to watch the show.

                                          Stupid, rude tour group members on the Bug Boat
                                      
First, your passport, visa form and entry form along with your picture (you brought your picture right?) go in the little window. Push that sucker in and wave it around until some disinterested Lao official takes it. Wait by the window while nothing happens. Half an hour later someone waves your passport and people shout "american" or "French" to help you know I'd you are done. The Lao guys say nothing. $35 later and off you go because you have a boat to catch. Chaos-Lao.
The boat is supposed to leave at 10:30 and proud I am to have so easily negotiated C-L so early. An hour to spare and I have a nice seat. By noon the boat is still moored and people are grumbling. Ah, C-L, the boat leaves when the boat is full. Finally we head down river to cheers from the grumpy.

                                           The boat does not move until the boat is full........

The Mekong is one of the world's last major untamed rivers. It is bridges only twice and dammed not at all. It is wondrous. See it soon before the Chinese dam it and it is ruined.

Five hours later we are in Pak Beng as darkness sets in as well additional C-L. The touts push up against the tiny dock as the 80 or so tired falang get off the boat. Bags are handed out but it is dark and no one can see whose is whose as Lao kids try to grab bags to tote up the hill for tips. And my bag is gone. A tiny Lao village and I have nothing but what's in me pockets precious. Perfect.

Of course it shows up, last, and I shoulder my bag, ignore the touts for meals and guesthouses and climb to the top of the hill. There I find a perfect, huge room with a hot shower for 300 baht, about $10.

Showered (thrice daily in SE Asia) and ready for dinner I here my name called. My crazy friends from the boat are calling me to their table. Hours later, beer-Lao later, and finally cigars and Lao-Lao whiskey later we settle the extraordinary bill of 1000 baht, or $33 for dinner and many many drinks for six. The most convivial evening of my entire trip so far.

                                      Patrick, Mauro, Marco, Joe and Yours Truly in Pak Beng, Laos

The next day was eight hours on the Mekong to Luang Prabang, UNESCO World Heritage site. The river was amazing. Go thee there and see for thineself.

                                            Pak Beng, Laos, through the smoke and river mist

                                             From the bow of the big boat

                                           Two days later, Luang Prabang, Laos.

C-L was mercifully absent and I was met at the dock by Sompang who drove me to the guest house 5 km out of town. Crazy homage rustic bungalows with geckos and mozzie nets.

And now? A quiet cafe on a leafy street with crumbling French era villas and wats everywhere. I feel as if I am in the ending of a Graham Greene novel.

So some days here, walking slowly and watching over my gecko.

                                                          The Gecko in the Lampshade
Be well.
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